Friday, 28 February 2014

Fashion Week Paris - Chalayan

Chalayan's creation are sometimes more art than clothes due to the experimental mind of the designer. I especially like the play with the different materials and the draping of the last creations with the bold cuts in the fine materials which let the a second layer come through. It is also a play with volumes and contrasts of the shiny transparent silk which floats loose around the body combined with strong, matt shades of body flattering materials underneath.







Fashion Week Paris - Roland Mouret

Roland Mouret is famous for his body conscious silhouette and graphic design influences. Also his Fall collection was in this sense very typical for the designer with a long silhouette which was emphasized through the graphic play of different materials, colors and textures. New were the leather stripe skirts which added more dynamic to the looks and created a more easy silhouette.






Fashion Week Paris - Lanvin

Alber Elbaz and the Triple X—Xtravagant, Xtreme and Xperiment. The name sets high expectations and the show started as a cinematic shadow play. While the faces of the models disappeared in the shadow of their hat pieces, there was a strong focus on material and textures which was emphasized with fringed, ruffled or raw-edged seams showing an destructive power.
The extravagant pieces could be seen in the pleated black leather dress or the midnight duchesse satin framed in beads. Experimental was the black and white high collared dress where Elbaz played with opulence of material and pattern.






Thursday, 27 February 2014

Fashion Week Paris - Nina Ricci

The Nina Ricci look combines feminine elegance with simplicity and also for Fall, the collection included elegant coats, silk dresses and knits. Amazing were the dark hues of red, which were even more emphasized through the different materials used. A more playful and feminine side was shown in the lighter colored pieces and the floral patterns. For the final different kind of lace dresses added some glamour.






Fashion Week Paris - Balmain

Already the Pre-Fall collection of Balmain had an exotic touch with the different animal prints in combination with leather, but with the Fall collection, Olivier Rousteing presented today, he could even strengthen the tribal theme. Also the color palette created interesting contrast with olive and dark blue hues and bright orange and yellow as a contrast.
The Balmain silhouette has always something from the 1980s with the emphasized shoulders and waist.  For Fall pleats, peplums and ropes added another dimension to the look which seemed more layered and colorful than before. I liked for example the pleated peplum belts over the skirts and the rope dress, though my favorite look is the asymmetrical grey leather top combined with grey cargo trousers and  the orange belt.