Saturday, 22 February 2014

Fashion Week Milan - Antonio Marras

Antonio Marras and the howling wolves. Already the invitation showed a wolf, later the room was studded with screens playing wolves howling to the moon. Wolf and moon, masculine and feminine, should be the main motive of the collection starting from digital prints to abstract sketch patterns or intarsia on knits. But as this was an Antonio Marras show the layers of references are more dense. In this collection he draw a line from Annemarie Schwarzenbach, lesbian siren of the Weimar Republic, to Little Red Riding Hood to Joseph Beuys and to Herman Hesse's Steppenwolf. A true art work.

The first looks worked with strong contrasts of black, white and red, but the color palette varied later towards softer shades of pink and light blue combined with floral pattern. The silhouette was easy and variable with mainly short skirts and dresses in different shapes, though his preferred silhouette is a clear A-line. Interesting were also the oversized knits with intarsia.

On a side note, seeing the wolves, the victory roles and the dark red lips a la Rachael in the movie Blade Runner, I couldn't help thinking also of Bram Stoker's: “Listen to them, the children of the night. What music they make!”







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