The Balmain collection is casual sporty with the typical bling factor of the house and strong graphic codes. New for Balmain this season are the overalls in denim and leather which bring more edge to the look.
More conceptional is the collection by Chanel: deconstruction, trompe l'oeil, collage, bricolage—this spring the Chanel collection works with different methods of creating pieces of art.
Chloé added for spring more femininity to their collection. The timeless elegant style with a boyish touch gets more sensual based on the materials used like the matte georgette, patchwork jacquard, light quilted fabrics and geometric lace.
One of my favorite collections, if not my favorite, was the Dior collection. It was an amazing mix of the Dior classics and something experimental new, take for example the famous bar jacket which was reconstructed with floral pleads in the back. Amazing were also the dresses made out of stripes.
Dries van Noten
Dries van Noten worked this season with the contrasts of rich and simple materials by combining the opulence of dark tulip damasks, black ruffles, Byzantine gold, Ottoman tassels and embroideries with simple and plain fabrics like poplin, calico and natural linen. The result is an interesting collection with oriental influences.
As an inspiration for spring, Alexis Mabille, took Rosie the Riveter and the Vargas girl and united them to an iconic tomboy pinup playing with ultra feminine and masculine signatures.
Also Isabel Marant worked with contrasts, like for example light lace and ruffles in soft shades of powder and white combined with leather and edgy cuts in black and petrol. Her look emphasizes femininity with edgy masculine contrasts which creates a uncomplicated sensual look.
Similar to Dior also Saint Laurent brought together the history and the presence of the fashion house. While the rock chick is definitely part of the future, Hedi Slimane managed to combine it with the houses tradition which could be seen in the suits, the asymmetrical evening dresses and the lip prints.
According to the designer herself, the spring collection is "an accent on understated seduction". Seductive were the feminine lace dresses with their interesting details, understatement could be seen in the simplicity in the cuts which worked with a reduced form and emphasized the material.
On the contrary the Emanuel Ungaro collection played rather with the opulence of stripes, polka dots, and ruffles although the collection stayed rather casual. I liked the ruffle as a leitmotif on trousers, skirts sleeves and bags which gave the collection something playful.
Ethnic patterns and prints play an important role in the Valentino collection. Their origin is hard to define as they unite Greek, Egyptian, African and maybe also American influences. The color palette is held dark with turquoise, coral, and red highlights.