Sunday, 29 June 2014

let the adventure begin

_day 1
Finally holidays and ready for the (fashion) adventure. Let's emphasize the word fashion at this point, because last time I have written that I am ready for adventures, I was still at the airport waiting for my luggage as the part of the terminal had to be evacuated... so after a little chaos at the beginning, I found the way to my new home for the next five weeks.
But just a short break to gasp for air after climbing up the stairs to the 4th floor and off to go shopping again, before the shops close. I have a big material list for my first course which starts tomorrow, so I dived straight into the famous fabric district of Montmartre, in high speed hoping in the rain from one shop to the other.


_day 2
The apartment is tiny, but very lovely. And from my street you can actually see the top of the dome of Sacre Coeur. So today in the morning, I took a nice walk to explore my neighborhood and buy some food. It was a nice atmosphere despite the light drizzle. The first tourists arrived and the cafés were just about to open and there was this nice smell of fresh bread in the air when you passed one of the bakeries.

And look what I have found: les tartes au citron. I couldn't decide if with meringue or without, so I took them both.

After my little exploration tour, I know now where the nearest bakery is, the nearest wine shop and if I should ever get tired of my hair, I have seen now also at least ten shops which offer solutions for this problem...

Highlight of the day was the amazing exhibition of Dries van Noten's inspirations. I have seen it already on pictures, but it's just amazing to see the pieces of the collections next to their inspirations. Besides paintings, sculptures and movies, there are also vintage dresses by Christian Dior, Chanel, Elsa Schiaparelli and Balenciaga which make one's heart beat a bit faster.

Thursday, 19 June 2014

Pre-Fall - trends and inspirations for the pre-season

While the summer is reaching its peak, it's getting time to have a look at the trends and inspirations for the coming Fall. I have collected here my personal Pre-Fall favorites, which make me even look a little bit forward to the colder season of the year.

Antonio Berardi
Antonio Berardi mentioned that his key inspirations for his new collection were glam rock and starscapes and emphasized it by the use of cool materials and sculptural looks. Besides the iridescent brocade which shimmers in grey and green, Berardi color palette is dominated by silver and grey shades.



Burberry Prorsum
For Pre-Fall Christopher Bailey found his inspiration in the Arts and Crafts movement from the late 19th century, evoked by densely textured jacquards, tapestry brocade accessories, velvet appliqués, and a William Morris-like print of flowers and leaves in distinctly autumnal shades. The silhouette stays long and lean as typical for Burberry.



The Chanel collection is my personal highlight of the season, love at first sight so to say. It plays with common clichés of the Wild West. The looks include blanket skirts and high-necked prairie blouses; miles and miles of fringe, accenting from knit ponchos and skirt to silky dresses.





The Chloé collection is based on graphics and textures with soft waterfall ruffles and layered looks in soft shades which contrast with the cocoon-like double-face blanket coats and the patch worked textures.



For the Pre-Fall collection Raf Simmons worked with classic looks and gave them his typical Belgian twist. The feminine silhouette contrasts with lean cuts which give the looks a contemporary, modern touch. 





Jason Wu
For Pre-Fall Jason Wu focused on draping and contrasting separates. He combined feminine ruffles and autumn florals with elements of sport wear and masculine accessories without loosing elegance. There are also a few of the body-limning sheaths he's known for which come with more ease than usual, thanks to the way he injected drape by splicing jersey knits with silk. 



Just Cavalli
Cavalli took his inspiration for the Pre-Fall collection from historic Persia and Turkey. With this theme in mind, Cavalli mixed tapestry patterns inspired by traditional kilim rugs with his signature leopard  and python prints.



Roberto Cavalli
For his main line Cavalli worked with mythological creatures like griffins, dragons and offered an interesting overlay of visual interest in the extravagant accessories. His signature prints were transferred into bias-cut strips,  pleated together with silk or rendered in dramatic monochrome embroidery. 



Proenza Schouler
The collection of Proenza Schouler is compared to the others before quite down to earth, but offers some interesting highlights regarding the luxury materials and cuts. Favorite piece of the collection are definitely the dark red leather culottes.



The collection of Valentino has the title eccentricity. The two designers combined for Pre-Fall decorative motifs and delicate lace with an effortless silhouette. Leitmotiv of the collection is the butterfly which occurred as embroidery or intarsia on different pieces.