Antonio Berardi mentioned that his key inspirations for his new collection were glam rock and starscapes and emphasized it by the use of cool materials and sculptural looks. Besides the iridescent brocade which shimmers in grey and green, Berardi color palette is dominated by silver and grey shades.
For Pre-Fall Christopher Bailey found his inspiration in the Arts and Crafts movement from the late 19th century, evoked by densely textured jacquards, tapestry brocade accessories, velvet appliqués, and a William Morris-like print of flowers and leaves in distinctly autumnal shades. The silhouette stays long and lean as typical for Burberry.
The Chanel collection is my personal highlight of the season, love at first sight so to say. It plays with common clichés of the Wild West. The looks include blanket skirts and high-necked prairie blouses; miles and miles of fringe, accenting from knit ponchos and skirt to silky dresses.
The Chloé collection is based on graphics and textures with soft waterfall ruffles and layered looks in soft shades which contrast with the cocoon-like double-face blanket coats and the patch worked textures.
For the Pre-Fall collection Raf Simmons worked with classic looks and gave them his typical Belgian twist. The feminine silhouette contrasts with lean cuts which give the looks a contemporary, modern touch.
For Pre-Fall Jason Wu focused on draping and contrasting separates. He combined feminine ruffles and autumn florals with elements of sport wear and masculine accessories without loosing elegance. There are also a few of the body-limning sheaths he's known for which come with more ease than usual, thanks to the way he injected drape by splicing jersey knits with silk.
Cavalli took his inspiration for the Pre-Fall collection from historic Persia and Turkey. With this theme in mind, Cavalli mixed tapestry patterns inspired by traditional kilim rugs with his signature leopard and python prints.
For his main line Cavalli worked with mythological creatures like griffins, dragons and offered an interesting overlay of visual interest in the extravagant accessories. His signature prints were transferred into bias-cut strips, pleated together with silk or rendered in dramatic monochrome embroidery.
The collection of Proenza Schouler is compared to the others before quite down to earth, but offers some interesting highlights regarding the luxury materials and cuts. Favorite piece of the collection are definitely the dark red leather culottes.
The collection of Valentino has the title eccentricity. The two designers combined for Pre-Fall decorative motifs and delicate lace with an effortless silhouette. Leitmotiv of the collection is the butterfly which occurred as embroidery or intarsia on different pieces.