Wednesday, 16 July 2014

Haute Couture - Highlights of the Fall 2014

The Haute Couture Week in Paris just finished on Sunday and I have chosen here my favorite collections.

_Christian Dior
The first collection is by Dior for which designer Raf Simons took a look back - not at one specific era, but the way different time periods influenced subsequent ones. He found himself thinking about Christian Dior's fascination with the Belle Époque and asking himself, "If I had been [working] at that time, what would be my interest, conceptually or technically or architecturally? What would I be excited about?"

The show was divided into eight groups, traveling from century to century, as for example, from the Marie Antoinette-inspired pannier silhouettes of the opening to astronauts' jumpsuits, back to embroidered court jackets and forward again to twenties volumes.
Another interesting thing that keeps Simons out ahead is his assertion that Couture need not be for special occasions, but incorporating it into your daily wardrobe.






_Maison Martin Margiela
For the Artisanal collection Maison Martin Margiela used as a source of inspiration surrealism and especially the game Exquisite Corpse, in which each artist would contribute an element to an image, fold it over, and pass it on to someone else who would then add his or her bit with no knowledge of what had been done before. At the end of it all, there'd be some screwball composite that would inevitably betray an unpredictable internal logic. Similar to the game the clothes were a mix of different materials and fabrics and played with surrealist elements such as Dali's lobster theme.






_Atelier Versace
For the Haute Couture collection Donatella Versace found her inspirations from the 1950s with a modern twist in form of cut outs, asymmetry and layering. For example the round-shouldered, boned-waist jacket was modified with cutouts and reassembled with golden buckles for a typical Versace touch. For the finale a powdery pink ball gown came slit up the middle, fully revealing the black Swarovski crystal bodysuit it was strapped and buckled to. "I am Versace," the designer said beforehand, explaining the piece's brazen cut and construction. "I have to show it to the world."






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